Airbrushes #
First of all; to answer the question: Do I need an airbrush?
It is not an absolute necessity, but most modellers who stick around for longer do use one. It’s not necessary when starting out. There are some very talented fellows who can paint with a bristle brush and get a great result. If you paint armour models on a campaign, then getting a nice, smooth surface is not so important so you can go a long way with brush painting and weathering.
An airbrush simplifies applying a smooth, even coat of paint, and allows soft-edged camouflage and custom auto paint schemes. It also allows you to apply a range of subtle weathering effects.
Cheap airbrushes are good for applying smooth (gloss) coats and crude camo schemes, but a good quality, double-action airbrush permits much finer patterns and can even substitute for a fine bristle brush in picking out details.
Another important use for the airbrush is applying clear coats. Decals will not adhere to matt finishes so applying gloss and matt clear coats is important to get decals to look ‘painted on’. Check the “Decals” wiki page for more info.
The main cost with airbrushing is your air supply, which can be a compressor, gas in an industrial bottle, or the propellant cans which quickly become expensive.
For a more detailed discussion of what you can do with a hand brush see: https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/9b6jdr/regarding_brush_painting_vs_airbrushing/
Got other questions? Need more precise advice that isn’t covered by this FAQ or after making a thread (or even before it?) Talk to the actual professionals who use these for illustration and other purposes -> /r/airbrush
Cheapest good airbrush and compressor combo #
Lets get straight to the point since people don’t like blocks of text: IWATA NEO CN airbrush and AS-186 compressor.
For a total of 150$ as the time of writing this (on 18.5.2021.) it is a good cheap airbrush and compressor combo.
Why? You get the whole package – Airbrush, a compressor with a tank, air filter and a hose which is all you need to start airbrushing*
Iwata Neo is considered one of the better cheap branded airbrushes on the market by many so I used it here, also the AS-186 compressor (Check later in the page about it more) is the standard of the hobby. You also get a hose which far too many people forget to buy when choosing a compressor.
*mostly everything
Summary of the page:
Airbrushes:
- Good starter airbrushes (50€-120€)
- High-end airbrushes (120€-400€)
Compressors (a small introduction)
FAQ
- I found this cheap airbrush online, or I have heard of the Master G23 (or other model) airbrush, are those any good? They’re so cheap!
- Why are some brushes so much more expensive than others?
- I don’t have the money to spend on a branded brush! If I MUST buy a cheap airbrush, then how do I take care of it?
- Are airbrushes /really/ that much better than rattlecans/spray cans?
- Why is cleaning an airbrush after every use important?
- Where and how to ask more questions about airbrushes
Don’s Airbrush Tips (review site of airbrushes)
Airbrushes #
Cheaper airbrushes (50€-120€) #
- Iwata Neo CN: Retails for approximately 45-75 USD. Often can be had for a discount of around 50-55 USD on Amazon Prime US or an equivalent numerical price in GBP. Those of you without an Amazon account should scour the internet and art store sales, where coupons often give an item away for 30-50% off list price. See review here: https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/neo-for-iwata
- Summary: The Iwata Neo CN is a double action, entry level airbrush, generally considered by most as the next step up from a Master G23. They are made in China (if, for some irrational reason, this matters to you), but have better build quality, are more reliable, and have quality control. It is considered by many to be a good starter brush and has generally favorable reviews, but at a far lower price than Iwata’s more expensive designs. Perfectly adequate for a beginner.
- Harder Steenbeck Ultra – A one-up from the Iwata Neo. It’s made from higher quality materials and it has a much more durable and easier to use/clean nozzle. It features a fine 0.2mm nozzle and a 2ml cup. The price is 70-90 USD.
- A great advantage to the Ultra is that you can get a “2 in 1” set which has a 0.2mm and a 0.4mm nozzle, as well as a bigger 5ml cup. This is great as the two nozzles compliment each other very well.
- You can use the 0.4mm one for larger areas and priming, while the 0.2mm one is for detail work. This set can be found for ~100€
- Fun fact – You can easily indentify the size of the needle based on the number of rings on it!
- Badger Patriot
- Badger Krome
High-end airbrushes (120€-400€) #
– Badger Sotar 20/20: This is u/windupmonkey‘s current airbrush. It is designed more as an illustrator’s tool and is specifically designed to provide fine lines and do detail work.
- Advantages: screw adjustment system in the back that allows preset spray just by tapping the trigger; smooth trigger pull and action, good for doing fine work and mottles. Ability to paint very thin lines, easy cleaning and removal of needles.
- Disadvantages: cost; the brush normally retails for around 200+ USD, with replacement parts being hard to find and expensive and not normally stocked as it’s not one of the more popular high end brushes. Cup is considered miniscule, for those of you who work in larger scales. See also Don’s Airbrush review: https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/badger-sotar
– Iwata HP-CS
– Iwata Custom Micron
– Iwata models priced above 150 to 400 USD (the upper end really isn’t strictly necessary for most modelers)
– Harder & Steenbeck Evolution (Silverline)
– Harder & Steenbeck Infinity series
– Hansa Topline
– Paasche Talon
Compressors #
Most modellers have this compressor, the AS 186. It’s the workhorse of every modeller I know. And for a good reason as well, with its price of only ~100€, it’s cheap and reliable. It might not be called the same, but you can easily recognize it by the look. There is a version without a tank for 20€ less, but I do not recommend it since it’s not so much cheaper than the one with the tank and having a tank allows for better air propulsion.
AS-186 aside, if you read reports and reviews that a compressor is reliable by airbrush users or modelmakers, that probably is good enough. However, some features you want to have regardless of what compressor you choose are: a moisture trap and a pressure regulator/gauge
You can buy both of them as a seperate piece on eBay/Amazon, though they will usually come like this as a single piece.
- Moisture trap: a filtering device along the air supply line that will capture any water particles that are spewed by the compressor while compressing the air to provide supply for your airbrush. When buying separately be mindful that you may need to find an adapter for your air/compressor/brush setup. You can also attach them to your airbrush – Example
- Regulator: regulates the pressure (measured in PSI, with a dial to tell you what PSI output from the compressor. This allows you to regulate the uncontrolled flow from the compressor to higher or lower pressure as needed. (People usually airbrush with 15-25 PSI)
WORD OF WARNING REGARDING “PROPELLANT CAN/CANNED AIR”
It is strongly advised that unless you have no other choice that you NOT purchase ANY airbrush set that uses an adapter to use “duster gas”, gas propellant, or canned air. These systems are cheaper to initially buy, but propellant is expensive. Some alternative air sources include air from a spare tire, and CO2 tanks, but these are NOT the same as the Badger Propel or similar, which should be avoided as they are generally wasteful and the money should be applied towards even a low end compressor. After a few canisters, you could have at least bought a cake/nail art compressor for around 40-50 USD (50+ USD includes a Master G23 or similar derivative) which is still better than a propellant canister.
The reason why these systems are disfavored: they combine the worst aspects of both systems, in that a can propellant airbrush is subject to all the disadvantages of a spray can (waste of propellant, non-refillable, lack of pressure control and cooldown effects), with the additional inconvenience of the fiddliness of using an airbrush (with all the pressure adjustment, making sure it’s not jammed, cleaning, etc). While it seems like a cheaper initial investment, they will cost you more in the long run.
FAQ #
1.I found this cheap airbrush online, or I have heard of the Master G23 (or other model) airbrush, are those any good? They’re so cheap! #
What you’re almost certainly looking at is a Chinese made, low-priced budget airbrush, often referred to as “clones”, “Veda” (clone of Vega airbrushes) or “Master airbrushes”. They are often included in “all-inclusive” packages with hoses and extra needles etc., but unless that model is a G23 or better, do not buy them.
These brushes are more maintenance intensive, and are less precise and sensitive. They require frequent cleaning, and this cannot be ignored if you want that brush to function reliably for more than a year.
What to use these airbrushes for?
- They are more suited to work in 1/48 scale and above, if you want to do German mottled camo, if not, they are also usable for hard line camo in 1/72 scale. These airbrushes do work and can lay down base coats and do some preshading in larger scales.
- They are not the kind of precision instruments that you pay three times at much for. If you’re looking for extra precision often seen on Youtube, you will have to pay more than 100€.
Despite their flaws, they are still better than most spray cans. Quality of these models vary from barely useable to decent.
Avoid single action or siphon feed brushes (this is both for more expensive brushes) as there seems to substantially subpar quality control on those brushes.
Conclusion: They are working airbrushes, but are limited in their capabilities and you will eventually want much more than this brush is capable of if you stay in the hobby. If you can afford better, even just over 50€ For an Iwata NEO, it will be a better choice as Iwata has better quality control and machining.
2. Why are some brushes so much more expensive than others? #
More expensive brushes aren’t just there to rip you off or something. More expensive brushes have to do with differences in design, and in most cases, increase in quality and workmanship of the brush. In general, this leads to brushes that are more precise, better machined, and depending on the manufacturer, use solid machined instead of cast parts. Polishing and surface coatings are also better, e.g. in the paint cup, the needle’s polishing, internal components, smoothness of air valves, etc.
In short, a more precise and sensitive airbrush that in some cases is also easier to clean, and less likely to jam. Cheap airbrushes are cheap in the sense that they are built down to a price, so the nice paint cup coatings, finely polished needles, carefully machined parts are occasionally replaced with castings, etc.
Cheaper airbrushes usually jam more frequently (as detailed above), require more maintenance, but are otherwise serviceable.
3. I don’t have the money to spend on a branded brush! If I MUST buy a cheap airbrush, then how do I take care of it? #
Takedown and cleaning guide, specific to Master G23s (with photos here): https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/2yzw9o/master_g23type_airbrush_takedown_and_cleaning/
You are not completely out of options. You can afford a “Vogue Air” or similar, tankless compressor (they do not include moisture traps or a regulator) for around 40-50 USD. This is not a recommended course of action and is included for completeness. The set will also come with a cheap Chinese brush. This is the specific brush I started with.
Takedown and cleaning guide, specific to Master G23s (with photos here): https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/2yzw9o/master_g23type_airbrush_takedown_and_cleaning/
Note: These provide some general principles of how to clean your airbrush, but for more expensive airbrushes with finer machining and paint channels and needles, be wary of using excessive force and vigor cleaning the brush, as you’ll damage them.
In the end, if you can wait a bit or save a bit more money next month, do NOT buy this and instead look for something a bit better discussed below.
4. Are airbrushes /really/ that much better than rattlecans/spray cans?** #
- Airbrushes aren’t single use devices
- Rattle cans are expensive relative to the amount of paint you get, and an airbrush can use an infinite variety of colors and inks.
- Pressure control and spray volume control
- Rattle cans are very simple instruments. With a good quality, double-action airbrush, you can spray as little or as much paint as you want at a time, at variable pressure, which is necessary for effects like colour modulation, panel fading, post shading, spraying weathering paint layers, dust layers, etc.
- Cans have cooldown effects
- Cans are powered by aerosol propellant, and as you use them for extended periods of time, will cool down, leading to a change in pressure and resulting lower performance.
- Spray cans are expensive and wasteful.
- Because cans offer little control, and are often sprayed at distances of 6-12 inches away from the subject in misted coats, a good proportion of the paint will be wasted and land on the area protecting your work surface rather than the model.
- Add together 5-6 cans, and you’ve already spent most of the money needed for an entry level or even a complete working Chinese airbrush, and worse, they’re non-refillable
- Once they are empty they’re pretty much good for nothing except the landfill and recycling.
- It’s really, really hard to spray a spray can indoors without making an awful mess. This is a major consideration if you live in an apartment, for example, and would prefer not to spray paint in the dead of winter freezing your rear off outside.
- Relative noxiousness
- Spray cans tend to include enamels, lacquers, all of which stink up the house and are more harmful chemically than acrylics.
5. Why is cleaning an airbrush after every use important?** #
You MUST clean your airbrush after use, at the very minimum spraying thinner through until it sprays clear.
Dried paint and uncleaned airbrushes are often 90% of the cause of problems with spraying, dry tipping, spatter, and other issues with the airbrush, so keep. it. clean.
Between colours, some users merely spray thinner until clean, and then when done at the end of session, will spray the airbrush clean and clean the paint cup without stripping down the airbrush for cleaning. This is good, but after some time (I usually do it once every 3-5 airbrush sessions) you will need to strip down your airbrush (removing the front end, nozzle, needle, etc, and doing a thorough cleaning of the airbrush to remove all the residue.
If your airbrush is performing oddly, bubbles are forming in the paint cup, the spray pattern is spattering or distorted and if you have eliminated air pressure/source problems or paint thinning, then the next most likely culprit is a dirty airbrush.
Example of a teardown of an airbrush (Master G23) – https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/2yzw9o/master_g23type_airbrush_takedown_and_cleaning/
Takedown procedure will vary from airbrush to airbrush so always consult your owner’s manual accordingly.
As small tips
- Avoid overtightening the screws
- You generally should not soak o-rings for extended periods of time in solvent, as some are not-solvent resistant.
- I also would not ram the q-tip too far into the paint channel.
Use your good judgment as to how best to clean components without damaging them. Also please refer to your owners manual. They exist for a reason.
Don’s Airbrush Tips #
Don’s a well-known reviewer with a long list of reviews from a variety of brands, from clones to high-end models. It does not appear to have been updated lately, but there are a large number of reviews, including photographic teardowns in some cases.
Note that his view on clones is against prevailing opinion (and also in line with u/windupmonkeys’ opinion) that they are serviceable, super cheap, but which are really not that great to recommend for beginners, and you have to know what you’re doing and be mechanically inclined and willing to do more frequent maintenance.